For patterns purchased before 2/16/08:

1. Work Left Front first, then Right Front. May leave yarn from LEFT (not Right) Front unbroken to use for back neck edging.
2. Disregard stitch counts given immediately after side waist shaping increases! They are wrong. I have removed them from pattern because if you are one or two stitches off at this point, it is not important; what matters is (1) that the sleeves end on the Dragon Skin pattern stitch noted, (2) that when the back neck stitches are cast on, the total number of back stitches are correct, as noted, and (3) the Right Front is worked to correspond to the Left Front.
3. After waist shaping increases are completed, work even on side edge, BUT continue opening edge decreases every RS row.
4. Note that marking where sleeve sts begin will only work for sizes L and 2X; stitch pattern inc/dec in the other sizes will cause the marker to move from row to row. Instead, BO same # of sleeve sts CO, and make sure you have the right # of Back sts remaining afterward.
5. Do not place RF sts on holder because you will immediately use same needle & yarn to join R/L Fronts and to work Back. 1st RS row after joining R/L Fronts: can just k across back neck sts: much easier than trying to work Dragon Skin patt inc (M1L&R) in this row. Purl these sts on next (WS) row, then cont Dragon Skin patt from sleeves across back neck on following row.

Patterns purchased before 4/7/08:

6. When finishing back neck edging, you will be picking up from cast on, not bound off sts.

10/23/07: the pattern has been updated and now includes directions for working both flat, in pieces, AND in the round to the armholes; in addition, the upper body shaping has been altered slightly to allow simpler and clearer directions for continuing the 7 knit/ 2 purl body ribbing into the neckband. IF you purchased the pattern before the above date, and want the updated version, please contact me at knititude@gmail.com, and I will email you the new version free of charge.

For patterns purchased before 3/28/08: under "Sleeves: Raglan Shaping," the first sentence should read "Dec 2 sts each side (k1, SSSK...)" etc., NOT "(k1, sl1, SSSK...)."

I notified Interweave Knits back in late January that there was an error in one of the charts for the Dragon-Skin Wrap for babies and toddlers, but the correction has not yet appeared on their corrections page. So, if you are making the smallest size (22" chest circumference) of the wrap, from the IK Holiday 2007 issue, in the "Left-Front Side Edge" chart, all "ML"s should be "MR"s.

Optional short row bust shaping:  the directions instruct you to work two rows to pick up all wraps, which would leave a couple of holes on either side of the shaped area.  Instead, after

Under the heading "Raglan Decreases" for sleeves, the directions for the first RS row state, "...k to X* sts before end...," when they should state "...work to X sts before end," because the Four Sisters stitch pattern continues up to the top of the sleeve.

Patterns purchased after 3/22/08 have been corrected.

*X = 4 or 5 sts depending on size worked and place in pattern.

For patterns purchased before 4/20/2008: On Row 8 of the Lace Chart, stitches #22 and #30 should be "P on RS, k on WS"; as this is a WS row, you will knit, not purl these stitches.

1. The wrap is really a big rectangle with sleeves, and when worn, the ends of the top of the rectangle and the ends of the rectangle drape into folds to form the fronts - or wrap and overlap across the front of the body.  Thus the usual knitted measurements are a bit hard to determine exactly:  for instance the "bust" measurement depends on how the wrap is, well, wrapped.  The shoulder to hem length is less variable, because the sleeves control the placement of the wrap on the body; however, note that this length does NOT include the fold-over part of the collar.  Thus the actual length of the short side of the rectangle, from top of collar to hem, is about 31".  The long side of the rectangle- the top or bottom edge of the wrap-- for the M/L size is about 49". If you look at the photos you can also see that if left open and allowed to drape, the fronts end up being longer than the back (and longer than the 25" shoulder to hem length given, which is probably most accurate for the back).
2. In the original pattern I called for the zigzag rib sections to be worked in K1, p1 rib for 7 sts(WS:  (P1, k1) 3 times, p1; RS:  (K1, p1) 3 times, k1) for the 1st 5 rows, then inc 1 in each section as directed in the VK pattern, and THEN begin with Row 1 of the zigzag rib charts (continuing all other charts as established).  The VK directions have you work the first 5 rows of the zigzag charts on only 7 of 8 sts (??).  Okay...but the major problem with their directions is that the zigs and zags will not line up with the cable crosses in the double braided cable DBC) and reversible rib cable (RRC), as I intended, if you don't work Row 1 of the zigzag charts with Row 7 of the DBC and RRC charts.
   Edited 9/4/08 to add:  You must also decrease in these sections to work the k1, p1 rib at the Right Front edge, shortly before binding off:  after completing Rows 1-24 of the Left and Right Zig Zag Rib charts 11 (14) times, on the next (WS) row: 
   Left: p2tog, [k1, p1] X 3
   Right: [p1, k1] X 3, p2tog. 
   Cont k1, p1 rib as est until bindoff.
   
3. Sleeve decreases:  Under "Dec rnd 2" the term "armhole edge" is introduced:  "Work 3 sts tog at armhole edge."  I find this confusing, because by now you are a number of rnds down the sleeve and away from the armhole edge.  Anyway, here I would have said, "Work to 3 sts at center of moss st panel at center underside of sleeve and work these 3 sts tog-- 2 sts dec'd."  Under "Dec rnd 4" I would have said, "Work to 3 sts at center underside of sleeve and work SK2P over these 3 (not 13!) sts.
4. Edited 8/12/08 to add:  Row 21 of the double-braided cable chart should be the same as row 19, and Row 23 should be the same as Row 13.